How to make a bathroom vanity
You can make your own 2-door / 3-drawer bathroom vanity at fraction of what it would cost to buy ready made. The bathroom vanity below measures 120cm length x 55cm wide x 85cm high and can be made using any 16mm board.
As long as you attach a countertop that overlaps by 2cm on the sides and front, you can use SupaWood, MelaWood, or other PG Bison decorative board and have everything cut to size at your local Builders Warehouse.
YOU WILL NEED:
All parts 16mm board unless otherwise specified
2 of 500 x 1168mm - top / base
2 of 500 x 850mm - cabinet sides
1 of 100 x 1168mm - back support
1 of 100 x 1200mm - kick plate
2 of 500 x 718mm - centre supports
2 of 400 x 500mm - shelf dividers
2 of 368 x 500mm - shelves
2 of 200 x 410mm - small drawer fronts
4 of 182 x 472mm - 12mm supawood - small drawer side
2 of 182 x 396mm - 12mm supawood - small drawer back
2 of 372 x 472mm - 12mm supawood - small drawer base
1 of 338 x 400mm - large drawer front
2 of 316 x 472mm - 12mm supawood - large drawer sides
1 of 316 x 396mm - 12mm supawood - large drawer back
1 of 372 x 472mm - 12mm supawood - large drawer base
2 of 390 x 740mm - doors
4 x 40mm screws for cabinet assembly
12mm screws for drawer assembly
Pattex No More Nails
8 shelf pins
4 concealed or butt hinges and screws
Hardwareish to fin
Drill / Driver plus assorted bits
GOOD TO KNOW
For a finish without any screw holes visible you will need to assemble using a pockethole jig, dowels or biscuits and biscuit joiner. Alternatively, use plastic or self-adhesive screw caps to cover drilled holes.
1. On both side sections cut out a 16 x 100mm rebate at the front edge for fitting the kick plate. Working with the pieces on their back edge, attach the base and top to the sides.
NOTE: If you are using MelaWood or similar laminated board you can attach edging strips to the raw edges that will be visible, either using contact adhesive or edging strips that are glue-backed and attached using a warm iron. Certain suppliers will edge the boards for you.
2. Attach the front kick plate using angle braces or corner brackets at the back. Or use dowels at the front.
3. Secure the back support to the sides, again using angle braces, corner brackets or a pockethole jig.
4. On both centre supports cut a 16 x 100mm rebate at the top back for fitting the back support. Assemble the centre section as shown above. Drill 3mm countersunk pilot holes through the centre supports into the shelf dividers.
5. On the cabinet frame measure in 368mm and 384mm in from both sides and use this as a guide for mounting the centre assembly. Secure the centre assembly through the back support and base.
6. Measure and mark for adjustable shelves, drilling for shelf pins to hold the shelves in place.
7. Attach the doors using concealed or butt hinges. A 2mm allowance has been included on the doors. If you plan to have a 3mm edging professionally done, deduct this from the door measurements.
8. Lay the cabinet on its back. Assemble the drawers (without drawer fronts) and insert into the openings. Apply a bead of Pattex No More Nails adhesive to the front edge of the side and base and press the top drawer in place, leaving a 5mm gap at the top to line up with the edge of the doors.
9. Repeat this for the bottom drawer, leaving a 5mm gap at the bottom so that the drawer lines up with the bottom of the doors. Lastly, add the middle [small] drawer, leaving an equal gap between the top and bottom drawers. Allow the adhesive to dry overnight.
10. Once the adhesive is dry you can secure angle or corner brackets on the inside of the drawer to properly secure the drawer front to the assembly.
NOTE: These drawers do not have drawer runners fitted. If you want to fit drawer runners reduce the back and base from 396mm to 372mm - allowing 12mm on both sides for the width of the drawer runners. If you are using drawer runners that are not 12mm wide, allow for the difference on the back.
Now you can attach your choice of hardware, handles and knobs. Double roller catches are the best way for holding doors closed. You will find everything you need to finish your bathroom vanity at your local Builders Warehouse..
Since this unit is going into a bathroom I always recommend that you lift the unit slightly off the floor. The easiest and most affordable way to do this is to secure roofing washers to the bottom edges.
Not responsible for errors or omissions