Adorable DIY WigWam or TeePee Bed for Little Boys

In this project we take you step-by-step through making this DIY WigWam or TeePee junior bed for your little boy or grandson.


apologies - source unknown



A friend asked me to make a WigWam or TeePee bed for her grandson. She came across an image (above) and asked if I could make it for her. I originally thought it looked quite tricky, but once you get started you will see that it's quite an easy project.










Note: These measurements are for a Junior size bed 1700mm in length.

2 of 200 x 1700mm 16mm SupaWood - bed front/back

2 of 200 x 838 16mm SupaWood - bed ends

2 of 1050 x 1100 16mm SupaWood - wigwam sides

2 of 1200 x 1764mm 12mm SupaWood - wigwam front/back

1 of 940 x 1600mm 16mm Chipboard - bed base

4 of 32 x 67 x 1400mm PAR pine - wigwam side frames

2 of 32 x 67 x 450mm PAR pine - bed legs

2 of 32 x 37 x 500mm PAR pine - frame supports

5 x 40mm cut screws | 5 x 65mm cut screws | 6 x 75mm cut screws

No More Nails Adhesive

Wood filler

Not responsible for errors or omissions




Drill / Driver plus assorted bits

Orbital sander plus 120- and 240-grit sanding pads


Bosch PFS 2000 spray system

Quick clamps

Tape measure and pencil








NOTE: Pre-drill and countersink all pilots holes for screws.





Assemble the Bed Base:

1. Assemble the bed base by securing the front, back and sides to the base with 5 x 65mm screws. Use a total of 5 screws along the long lengths and 3 screws along the short lengths. Fill these with a dap of No More Nails adhesive, let dry and then fill with wood filler.



2. Secure the [4] legs to the bed base with wood glue and 5 x 40mm screws. Drive the screws through the base into the legs.




3. Attach the 500mm PAR pine frame support to both ends of the bed base, making sure it is flush with the top edge of the bed ends. Secure in place with wood glue 40mm screws.




Apply a bead of glue over the back of the frame support and clamp this in place while you secure with screws.












Assemble the Wigwam Sides:

To create the wigwam sides you need to do a bit of cutting beforehand.





4. Draw diagonal lines from the bottom corners to the centre top - as shown above. Cut these away with your jigsaw.



5. Measure and mark out a circular opening and also cut this out. If you prefer, you can leave out this step altogether.


6. Take the [2] PAR pine side frames and place these flush with the sides of the triangular cut-out. Mark the position where the two pieces overlap.



BELOW: The wigwam sides are marked and ready to cut.



7. To make a half-overlap joint, you can use a mitre saw. Set the cutting depth for 6mm deep and remove the material between the overlaps. Keep in mind that these need to overlap each other.



BELOW: Wigwam frame sides cut for overlap joint.



8. Position the sides against the triangular shape, making sure each side sits perfectly flush and secure with wood glue on the overlap joint and 75mm screws down the sides.



BELOW: Side sections complete.

BELOW: Close-up of half-overlap joint.










Assemble the Bed Sides





Make the Front/Back Panel





9. On the front and back panels, openings are cut out. The original design had a large opening on the front measuring 600 x 1200mm and the back 500 x 120mm. You can alter these as required, or leave out the back opening to suit. Measure, mark and cut out with a jigsaw.





OPTIONAL: As a finishing touch, we used a router to create a faux beadboard effect on the front and back panels. 





10. For this next step, you will need an assistant. The front and back panels need to be placed so that they meet in the centre at the top. You can temporarily place and mark each before and then drill pilot holes before securing the front and back panels by screwing through the PAR pine wigwam frames and into the panels with 50mm screws.






All screw holes were filled with a small dab of Pattex No More Nails and then with wood filler. The adhesive ensures that the wood filler sticks to the screw head and reduces cracking as the wood filler dries. Once dry, sand smooth with 120- and then 240-grit sandpaper.



Take the assembled bed apart for painting. Sand all the sections (and edges) smooth in preparation for painting.




To paint the individual sections we used our Bosch PFS 2000 Spray System. We use this for all our painted projects with fantastic results. Use painter's tape to mask off the sides where two colours are used. Plascon Polvin was tinted to a baby blue and French blue and 5 coats of paint were applied. A clear acrylic sealer was applied over this for protection.








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