Single Headboard Made From Woven Jute Strips
This decorative headboard is made by weaving jute strips around a pine frame, and it's a quick and easy project you can finish in no time at all.
YOU WILL NEED:
3 rolls of jute or upholstery strip
44 x 44 x 1800mm PAR pine (depending on the size of headboard)
4 of 32 x 32 x 950mm PAR pine - frame top/bottom
8 of 32 x 32 x 300mm PAR pine - frame sides / wall supports
Scissors or fabric cutting wheel
2 toggle latches + 16mm screws
4 x 50mm cut screws
4 wall plugs + screws
Combi Drill + assorted bits
Sander + 120-grit sandpaper OR sandpaper
Tacker or heavy-duty staple gun
Tape measure and pencil
The measurements shown in the supplies above are to make a single headboard, but you can modify the lengths if you want to make a larger headboard for a three-quarter, double, queen or king-size bed.
The headboard is made in two sections - two separate frames - that are joined together once assembled using toggle latches. The upper and lower frames are the same size, so make one frame and then duplicate this for the second frame. If you want the headboard to be freestanding rather than attached to the wall, make sure to purchase extra 44 x 44mm PAR pine to accommodate for this.
Having all your PAR pine cut to the exact length at your local Builders makes for quick and easy assembly, but if not, you can always cut your pieces to length at home using a jigsaw, mitre saw, or table saw.
Before assembling the pieces, sand them all smooth with 120-grit sanding pads or sandpaper. After sanding smooth, secure the top and bottom frames onto the side frames using 50mm screws and countersinking the holes to ensure the screws are flush or just below the surface of the wood. The side frames are secured 50mm in from the ends, as shown in the diagram below.
GOOD TO KNOW: If the jute or upholstery strips are less or more than 50mm wide, adjust the position of the side frames accordingly.
Measure and cut the upholstery strips to cover the frame from the top to the bottom, allowing extra to fold over the frame and be secured on the back. Also, cut enough strips for weaving horizontally across the frame, and again allowing extra length for fastening to the back of the frame.
Working from one side and using the horizontal straps, start attaching these from one side to the other side, making sure that each strap is flush against the next strap before stapling them to the back frame. Remember to leave a gap at the end of the top and bottom frames on both panels.
Now you can start adding the vertical straps by weaving them over and under the horizontal straps, as shown below. Again, don't forget to leave a 50mm gap at the ends.
Secure the ends of the strap to the back of the frame.
Use a 3mm HSS bit to drill through the top and bottom frame to mount onto the wall. Mark a distance of 100mm from both ends on both frame sections.
To mount the headboard onto a wall, this project uses32 x 32mm battens secured onto the wall with wall plugs and screws. Mark the location for the battens on the wall and then drill pilot holes in the battens so that you can mark for drilling into the wall. The battens should be positioned so that they fit exactly inside top edge of the top frame and the bottom edge of the bottom frame and as close to the sides as possible.
Secure the battens onto the wall, checking with a spirit level that everything is straight and level.
GOOD TO KNOW: Before properly securing the battens onto the wall, double-check the measurements so that the headboard will sit flush on top of the battens.
Position the headboard over the battens mounted on the wall and secure in place with 50mm screws through the top and bottom frames and into the battens. This will provide a secure mounting for the headboard.
Attach the toggle latches at both ends of the top and bottom frame, as shown below, to join the two panel sections.
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