Bathroom storage cubes

Turn PG Bison SupaWood cubes into bright cabinets for your bathroom. These cubes are stacked so that they take up the minimum amount of space. Two are left open, and the other two have fitted doors to hide bathroom clutter.




16mm SupaWood cut to the following sizes:

- 16 of 16mm SupaWood 330 x 350mm - panels

- 2 of 16mm SupaWood 350 x 350mm - doors

Masking or packing tape

Piano hinge - 80cm in length

4 Casters

Wood glue

50mm Hex bolt, washers and nuts

12mm and 30mm wood screws

220-grit sandpaper

Acrylic PVA - any colour as a base coat


Rust-Oleum 2X Painters Touch in your choice of colours


Tin snips

Drill/Driver and asstd drill and screw bits

Mitre saw, jigsaw with adjustable plate, or table saw






1. Each of the [330mm wide x 350mm] long panels needs to have a mitred edge, so that four sections can be joined to create the cubes.

DIY TIP: A table saw offers the most accurate method of cutting mitred edges. If using a circular saw or jigsaw, use a straightedge and clamps as a guide.

DIY TIP: Mitre joints eliminate the appearance of end grain that can be difficult to smooth and paint on MDF. They're made by cutting the two adjoining pieces of timber at 45° and securing with a quality wood glue. However, you can modify this project to use butt joints if you prefer not to angle the edges.



2. Position the panels inside down, connecting them with packaging or masking tape. Turn the panels over to apply adhesive to each of the mitered edges, taping securely so that the cube holds together until the glue has dried.



3. Using tin snips, cut the piano hinge the length of the door and use an offcut to align and drill 2mm pilot holes, securing with 12mm wood screws. Position the hinge on the edge of the cubes, securing top and bottom screws first. Attach the other side of the piano hinge to the two doors.



4. Use a mitre saw or mitre box and tenon saw to cut 45 degree ends off a 32 x 32mm pine offcut, cutting one side then rotating and cutting three more times. Cut the front of the handle square, 5mm from the mitres. Secure to the two doors with , securing with 32mm wood screws.



5. On the base of the bottom cube, use a square guide made from pine offcuts to mark the casters in from the edge. Drill 2mm pilot holes to secure the casters using 12mm wood screws.



6. Secure the cubes in pairs, drilling a 10mm hole for the securing bolt at the centre of the three top cubes to secure to the cube beneath. Drill a 10mm hole 36mm deep to countersink the bolt head then use a washer and locknut to secure from below.

DIY TIP: You can also use a 12mm spade bit to create a countersunk hole to hide the nuts.



Once assembled, sand the edges of the SupaWood with 240-grit sandpaper until shiny in appearance. Wipe with a clean cloth to remove all traces of dust. Take the cubes outside and place on sheets of newspaper.



Apply one coat of acrylic PVA as a base coat. Use a foam roller for a brush stroke free finish and, once dry, lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper.

DIY TIP: I prefer to prime in this way, as it results in using less spray paint.

To spray the cubes use Rust-Oleum 2X spray paint in your choice of four colours. We used Gloss Apple Red, Gloss Real Orange, Gloss Sun Yellow and Gloss Grape. Remember to shake the can well before use, and to spray from a distance of no less than 30cm away from the project to avoid drips and runs. You definitely won't need more than two coats.


You will find Rust-Oleum 2X spray paint at your local Builders Warehouse.