DIY dressing table or study desk
I have just finished making a desk for a little girl that can also be purposed into a study desk for a child or adult, or a dressing table. This desk / dressing table can be painted in your choice of colour and even distressed if you are looking for a more cottage or shabby chic finish.
YOU WILL NEED:
QTY W L Material Item
1 of 120 x 880 - 16mm SupaWood - Cubby base
1 of 120 x 900 - 16mm SupaWood - Cubby top
6 of 120 x 120 - 16mm SupaWood - Cubby sides
1 of 200 x 860 - 16mm SupaWood - Cubby back
1 of 500 x 1000 - 16mm SupaWood - Desk top
1 of 500 x 1000 - 16mm SupaWood - Desk base
4 of 110 x 408 - 16mm SupaWood - Desk inner supports
2 of 110 x 352 - 16mm SupaWood - Desk sides
2 of 110 x 840 - 16mm SupaWood - Desk front/back panel
4 of 44 x 44 - 760 pine - Legs
4 of 118 x 248 - 12mm SupaWood - Cubby drawer front/back
4 of 118 x 96 - 12mm SupaWood - Cubby drawer sides
2 of 224 x 96 - 12mm SupaWood - Cubby drawer base
4 of 338 x 68 - 12mm SupaWood - Desk drawer front/back
4 of 384 x 68 - 12mm SupaWood - Desk drawer sides
2 of 314 x 384 - 12mm SupaWood - Desk drawer base
16mm SupaWood (SW)
12mm SupaWood (SW)
44 x 44mm PAR pine
Medium panel pins
4 drawer pulls or knobs
Plascon Polvin - white
Acrylic sealer or antique wax
400-, 1200-grit sandpaper
Drill/Driver + assorted bits
Orbital sander + asstd sanding pads
Jigsaw and clean-cut jigsaw blades
Tape measure and pencil
Measure and mark all the pieces for the cubby section of the desk to drill pilot holes for quick and easy assembly.
On the underside of the desk top, measure and mark the top section as shown below. The guides and supports are mounted by drilling pilot holes, countersinks and driving screws through the top.
Attach the legs to the guides with wood glue and screws. Drill pilot holes through the pine legs and board and countersink.
Before mounting the front desk panel, measure, mark and cut out openings for the drawers.
Cut the desk base out to fit around legs and then mount and secure; drill pilot holes, countersink and drive screws through the desk base.
Fill all holes with wood filler; leave to dry and then sand smooth with 180-grit sandpaper. While waiting for wood filler to dry, sand all cut edges with 240-grit sandpaper until smooth and shiny.
Note: I didn't taper the legs, but you can easily do this with a jigsaw or table saw.
The drawers are made by gluing together all sections and tapping in a few panel pins for added strength.
If you are using a Bosch PFS spray system, paint the drawers separately, placing them on a board to raise them and make it easier to spray all around in one go. The drawer bottoms are not sprayed, as this needs to be smooth for easy sliding in and out of the drawers.
After spraying the desk, use 180-grit sandpaper to remove paint overspray from inside the drawer cavity.
For a professional finish I normally apply a slightly watered down base coat, followed by two coats of paint. Once dry, this is sanded down with 400-grit sandpaper before two more coats of paint are applied. Once dry, the surface receives a further sanding with 1200-grit sandpaper and then a final coat of clear acrylic sealer.
After spraying the desk, use 180-grit sand-paper to remove paint overspray from inside the drawer cavity.
For a professional finish I normally apply a slightly watered down base coat, followed by 2 coats of paint. Once dry, this is sanded down with 400-grit sandpaper before two more coats of paint are applied. Finally the surface receives a further sanding with 1200-grit sandpaper and then a final coat of clear acrylic sealer. Alternatively, if you prefer a matt finish, apply Woodoc antique wax.