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Ask the Diva
If you have a home-related question, then this is the place! Send your queries to our DIY Diva and we will answer them as best we can. If we don’t know - we’ll find out for you. Submit your question and we'll post and answer. In this way we can build up a comprehensive library of information that everyone will be able to access.
New posts...
Francois
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 12:43 PM
Match old wood floor to concrete floor
Hi,
We have just bought an old house, pressed ceilings, wooden floors etc. There are parts of the house that are extended from the original and hence the wooden floors stop there and tiles take over. The flow doen't look right. We were thinking of replacing the tiles with polished concrete floors, but can't find any pictures online of how wood will go with concrete. Please help!
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Hi Francois,
Get in touch with www.concretewise.co.za. They have a fantastic range of finished polished concrete flooring options and would be able to finish the floor so that it perfectly blends with the existing wooden floors in the house. Speak to Craig or Cathy Urquhart on Tel. 086 111 5788.
Janice
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Melanie
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 11:26 AM
Wendy house extension
I have a very small house and we are not able to afford extending or adding another room and bathroom. Therefore I pose the question - can we attach a wendy house to our home as part of the house and what are the legal requirements? example, Do we need a plan?
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Hi Melanie,
You will need a plan as you are altering the structure of the existing building by 'attaching' the wendy house. I also don't think that your local municipality would approve of a wooden structure becoming part of the main building. There are quite strict laws regarding wooden buildings.
You don't need a lot of money to add on a small extension: cement and sand for foundations; bricks for walls; windows; plastering material, roof trusses and roofing, which can be trusses and IBR sheets. If you work all this out you can quite easily add on a proper extension that will last a lifetime and improve the value of your home. Nina- our Joburg Diva - is offering Basic Building Workshops if you are interested.
Janice
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Margie
Saturday, March 13, 2010 6:12 PM
Wooden coat hangers
Hi
Where do I buy normal cheapish wooden hangers that I can use to cover? They seemed to have dropped off the planet or instructions on how to make them myself?
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Hi Margie,
Wooden hangers have become so expensive to manufacture that they have now been replaced by plastic hangers. You can easily make your own using 9mm plywood - use a jigsaw to cut out the shape of the hanger - sand smooth - cover then as you wish. You can pop a large cup hook in the top to hang them up.
Janice
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Connie
Friday, March 12, 2010 9:03 AM
Stop damp and moisture in built-in closets
Hi Janice,
Thank you for the prompt reply and instructions - much appreciated. I must also say I am using the Stop Humidity in my clothes cupboard - that is next to the shower and it works.
Thanks for that advice
Connie
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Mabel
Friday, March 12, 2010 8:53 AM
How to hang a heavy mirror
What can I use to hang a very heavy mosaic mirror that doesn't have a frame around. I don't wan't to drill holes on it.
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Hi Mabel,
I am presuming that there is a hanger at the back of the mirror. For hanging heavy items onto walls you need more than a standard picture hook - preferably a fischer Hammerfix N plug and screw - available at your local Builders Warehouse.
You would drill a hole to the diameter and length of the nylon fitting and hammer into the wall - leaving 3-4mm of screw head away from the wall to hang your heavy mosaic mirror.
Janice
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Jane
08 March 2010 10:50 AM
How to fill holes in ceiling
Hi,
We have put downlights in our dining room, but have two holes in the ceiling (made hole in the wrong position). What can I use
to fill these holes?
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Hi Jane,
You can use a thick piece of carboard or hardboard, cut to the size of the holes, and glued into position with Sista FT101 or FT130 (see the home page for more info on this product). These products will also fill in any gaps around the filler and can be sanded smooth and painted once dry.
You can purchase both products at your local Builders Warehouse or Builders Express store.
Janice
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Connie
08 March 2010 10:05 AM
Replace with stained glass windows
Hi, Please help. I did some stained glass window panes and would like to put them in the bathroom myself. I have Steel windo frames. Is there a quick do it yourself explanation/course/tips, please? Thank you. I also bout the dehumidifier as per your advice and it looks as if it works.
Thanks
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Hi Connie,
Taking out old glass and replacing is a fairly easy project but does require some safety precautions. Start by putting strips of tape over the old glass - this helps to prevent the window from breaking up into too many pieces. Have something on the ground underneath the window to catch falling glass. You need to wear thick gloves and safety goggles when doing this. Remove all the old putty (or wooden beading) around the frames on the outside. Have someone hold the old glass in place while you do this, so that it doesn't fall out. Once removed, you should be able to push out the glass from the inside - try to keep it in once piece if possible.
Once the glass has been removed, clean out around the frame to remove any old putty. Knead the new putty until soft and pliable and make a long, thin sausage the fit around the frame. Place the new glass into the frame - again have someone to hold the glass - and add another sausage of putty around the frame. Push the putty down, adding more as required, and smooth with a putty knife, scaping off any excess as you go along.
Hope this helps
Janice
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Johann
08 March 2010 09:57 AM
More than tiling for bathroom and kitchen
Good Morning
I have a challenge for you!
Being in my 60’s I have seen bathrooms going through many changes. From plain cement floors to linoleum covering to tiles. From enamel wall paint to one or two rows of tiles above the bath to floor to ceiling wall tiles in the 70’s. As from that point on wards I have not seen advertised changes or alternatives to tiles. My challenge is to find something that a DIY’er can do to replace wall tilesin kitchens and bathrooms , with same cost/price structure and as hardwearing as tiles.
Regards
Johann
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Hi Johann,
I love challenges!
The latest trend for bathrooms particularly is to go with a water-resistant plastered finish and ditch the tiles altogether. Companies such as www.comprox.com and www.cemcrete.co.za have a wide range of cementitious products that can be applied to walls and floors, both indoors and outdoors. These products are easy to apply as a do-it-yourself project and do not cost anywhere near as much as tiles.
You can also use these products in a kitchen, but in this room I still prefer traditional tiles, which are easy to clean when they get grimy.
Janice
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Khensile
04 March 2010 11:20 AM
How to match and fix plastering
I have recently finished building the extra rooms I had wanted in the house. The plastering was done and it's more a suitable plastering for outdoors because it's more like a scratch plastering - it has a lot of holes, meaning painting this will really need a lot paint to make it look good. The other thing is there is a part where they took out the windows and filled in with brick but the wall is now uneven and it shows that windows were removed. Is ther a type of paint that might work for this, I mean with mud kind of effects in it or thick enough to make the surfaces a bit more even. I would like to just make a messed up job a bit decent without having to do the repastering, as it is going to cost more and I don't think I can really accommodate any more mud in the house now that everything is almost back to normal.
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Hi Khensile,
Sounds like you have a job on your hands. While some exterior paints will work to fill and hide the scratch plaster and smaller holes, you are still going to notice the uneven wall where the windows were removed. The only way to truly turn this into a decent finish will be to apply an even layer of plaster over those areas so that they are not so noticeable. Once that is done you can use a paint such as Prominent Paint Ripple or Fillercoat, which are textured paints and will work well to hide wall imperfections.
You can purchase Prominent Paints are your local Decorating Centre or Prominent Paints store.
Janice
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Nicky
Thursday, February 25, 2010 4:36 PM
Restore and paint a veneer table
I have a wood veneer dining table which I would like to have painted. Is this possible without having to sand it down first? Concerned that the veneer may be too thin to be sanded and may loose the effect of the grain. Is there a product I can apply directly onto the veneered surface and then apply paint or paint effect? Just bored with the dark wood and want to try and achieve a beach house look.
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Hi Nicky,
If the table surface is not heavily varnished you should be able to get away with applying a Universal Primer to the surface before painting. In the Rust-Oleum range they also offer a spray primer that can be used.
Janice
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Loretta
Thursday, February 25, 2010 1:56 PM
Problem with mildew in closets
Hi there
I wonder if you can help ? I am having a mildew problem in my built in clothes cupboards – very frustrating. Other than buying dehumidifiers from Cape Town at R565 each (I need at least 6, is there any other solution to this problem ? I live in Durban and yes I know we are in the hottest season of the year but cannot at the drop of a hat select a piece of clothing to wear as it has mildew on it and smells nasty.
I would appreciate some suggestions !
Thank you
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Hi Loretta,
If you have such a serious problem with mildew in your built in closets I would suggest that you look at ways to increase air circulating within the cupboards. Dehumidifiers are great but will work out expensive if you need 6 of them.
There is a new product on the market from Henkel (see below) that I have been testing for a week. It absorbs moisture from the air, which is then deposited into the container. I had it in my office for a few days and started with a sore throat because the air was so dry - but bear in mind that I work in a small, closed off area with very little ventilation. My sore throat has gone and I've now popped the unit into the pantry. In one week there is already 2cm of water in the container and the weather has been hot and dry. It's worth a try.
I believe they are to be sold at supermarkets and various hardware stores, or visit www.Henkel.co.za for more information
Janice
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Nick
Sunday, February 21, 2010 4:47 PM
Brick louvres in roof space
How can I build a brick louvre. My house is very warm with the black tile roof and I want to install a louvre on each side of the house for ventilation through the roof to get my house cooler.
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Hi Nick,
You're going to a lot of hard work and mess with this option, whereas putting in loft insulation like Think Pink will probably be far more cost effective and will definitely cool down your home. I'm also not sure if you are going to find large ventilation louvres - the most common ones are fairly small.
Janice
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Frik
Thursday, February 18, 2010 1:13 PM
Sealing of box gutters
Please advise me how to seal leaking box gutters .I’ve been using bitumenc ompound and it did not last for long. Thank you in anticipation.
Frik Poolman
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Hi Frik,
Bitumen becomes very soft over time, especially in such a hot spot. You need to get yourself some Pattex PL700 sealing adhesive that is heat, waterproof and UV resistant.
Janice
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Gerald
Wednesday, February 17, 2010 4:19 PM
REAL stuff for guys!
Why "Divas"? What about the guys?
Went onto website - not a great experience to find what I was looking for (fitting of ceiling panels - tips, material options etc.). Seems not a site for serious people... but maybe it was intended to teach the fairer sex how do drill holes in walls and hang up pictures??
What about us who want information about products stocked, how to use products, useful tools and tips... i.e. what about the REAL stuff?
Let me know of you get this note - otherwise I will accept that I have hit yet another dud site to add to my list.
Regards,
Gerald
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Hi Gerald,
You know what they say about "You can please some people some of the time ..."
We launched DIY Guys some time ago but it seems there was too much embarrassment about being taught by a woman, so it fizzled out of existence. But we did try.
The problem with REAL stuff, is that most of our local suppliers are not interested in showing people how it's done, as we might put their contractors out of business (LOL). I am going to be doing a ceiling project from start to finish and it will be shown on www.Home-Dzine.co.za and I try to accommodate all the requests that we receive, but a person can only do so much when you are spending your own money to do it.
BTW - We don't stock any products - only ideas and inspiration.
Janice
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Marni
Wednesday, February 17, 2010 9:25 AM
Building a storage unit
Hi!
I need to design a storage unit for low budget decorating...need to find out the pricing - don't no what to use. Maby pine (and stain it grey) or use veneered supawood (don't know which)??
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Hi Marni,
You must take a look through the www.Home-Dzine.co.za - DIY and Archive section. I am sure that you will find plenty of ideas for the storage unit.
Pine would be the cheapest option but make sure that you get straight pieces that little or no knots in the wood. Sand the wood with 240-grit sandpaper before you put it together and seal with Woodoc 10 with added stain concentrate. If you want a grey colour you can use the ebony stain.
Supawood is a bit more expensive, but you will be able to paint this for a nice finish. Use a Rust-Oleum primer and apply Rust-Oleum Lacquer for a high-gloss lacquer finish.
Good luck with your project!
Janice
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Rose
Tuesday, February 16, 2010 2:55 PM
Install Cobble paving
Would like to do my own cobble paving. Are there any courses available for women to do? Or could you please advise me
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Hi Rose,
We do offer a wide selection of workshops on www.EASY-DIY.co.za and www.DIY-DIVAS.co.za and there is a workshop on Garden & Pool that will be held later in the year. Alternatively, you will find plenty of articles on the Home-Dzine website that offer advice on laying paving of any sort, and cobble paving follows the same principles of installation. Take a look through the Garden and Garden Archive sections for other articles.
Janice
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Charlotte
Thursday, February 11, 2010 8:34 AM
Water damage to bathroom vanity
We had water damage to our vanity in the bathroom. The tiles cracked because the wood swelled. We now have to rebuild the top of the vanity. Can we use a lintel to span the length of the cupboard instead of wood and tile over the lintel?
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Hi Charlotte,
You're probably going to need more than one lintel as they are not very wide, and if you take into consideration the total weight that will then sit on top of the cuboard (if there is one), it's not a very good idea. Even one lintel is heavy. What I would suggest is a piece of shutteryply (commercial chipboard) and tile over that. It doesn't absorb as much water as chipboard and will not swell to the same extent should this occur again.
Janice
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Theo
Wednesday, February 10, 2010 8:55 AM
Damp on wall behind shower
My bathroom is adjacent to my one bedroom wall. Dampness from the shower is penetrating the tiles and are causing blisters on the opposite side of the shower tile which is my bedroom wall. I have added some 'non-penetrative' mixture with the tile fixative but it does not seem to help. What do you suggest how do I fix the problem ?
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Hi Theo,
The best way is to regrout the tiles to make sure they are 100% sealed, and use silicone sealer around any gaps or areas where water may penetrate into the wall. If you remove the cause of the moisture then you will solve the dampness on the other side of the wall. Check carefully for any gaps and fill these in and you should be sorted. For the wall in the bedroom, you will need to remove the paint and let this dry out completely before priming and repainting.
Janice
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Marilyn
Monday, February 08, 2010 1:49 PM
Cover an ugly drain
Hi Janice
My drain outside my kitchen and behind the house looks bad - i was wondering will it be advisable to put mosaics on them to give them some life. Please advise.
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Hy Marilyn,
That's a wonderful idea and a great way to disguise an ugly drain. Get yourself some heavy-duty tile adhesive - same used for natural stone tiles - to bed and grout the mosaic so it will last longer.
Janice
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Nicky
Friday, February 05, 2010 10:12 AM
Paint bathroom pipes
Can I paint over copper and metal piping in my bathroom? I have a shower in my bath tub and pipes from the basin on the wall. I am renting a flat but these pipes are really ugly!
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Hi Nicky,
You can easily paint over copper and metal pipes in your bathroom using an enamel paint. Use a 120-grit sandpaper to sand the pipes and give them a good wipe afterwards to make sure that they are clean before applying the paint.
Janice
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Gail
Thursday, February 04, 2010 1:48 PM
Restore parquet floor
Hi Janice
We have recently pulled up our carpets and would like to fix up the parquet flooring underneath. What would be the best product to get rid of the glue/carpet remnants that are left behind from the under felt? And could you also advise what to use to sand and varnish/treat the floors?
Thank You
Gail
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Hi Gail,
This trick is to remove the glue without damaging the floor. If you are going to be sanding the floors it makes the process a bit easier. It also depends on the type of glue used, although contact adhesive is the most popular and the worst to get off!
You can try two options: One way is to use a hot hairdryer to soften the adhesive and scrape it off with a PLASTIC scraper - an old credit card also works well! The other option is to go the opposite way and try using ice to harden it and then scrape it off. Both ways work and simply depend on the glue used.
Janice
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Vicky
Thursday, February 04, 2010 12:44 PM
Repair damaged ceiling boards
Hi,
My husband recently damaged the ceiling boards around our trap door into the roof. We have been battling to get a handyman in to repair the damage as it is quite a small area and are wondering whether this is a job we could do ourselves. Could you please tell me how I would go about doing this?
Many thanks!
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Hi Vicky,
You could easily replace the damaged boards if they are only small sections. Rip off the old boards and measure up what you will need to replace. Your local Builders Warehouse or Builders Express store will stock standard gypsum ceiling boards, which are easy to cut using a sharp craft knife. Nail them back in place, putting the nails in where the timber support beams are located. Use a paintable silicone sealer around the edges, wiping smooth for a neat finish - or use interior crack filler.
Janice
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Paula
Friday, January 29, 2010 3:01 PM
How to paint melamine
Hi Janice,
Please could you tell me the best way to paint melamine shelves.
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Hi Paula,
The preparation is the most important part for painting melamine. You need to sand down the surface of the melamine with 180- or 240-grit sandpaper, preferably with a *Random Orbit Sander, to provide a proper key (or surface) for the paint to bond with. Once that's done painting is as easy as rolling the paint on with a foam roller. If you have a BOSCH PFS paint sprayer - even better. And you can also use any of the Rust-Oleum range for painting melamine as well.
Janice
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*People always ask me the difference between a normal sander, and orbital sander and a random orbit sander. The two former sanders are great for everyday sanding, but a random orbit sander is perfect for finishing as it does not scratch the surface.
Leone
Tuesday, January 26, 2010 8:38 AM
Revamp old ball and claw furniture
Hi there!
My kids are "inheriting" old bedroom furniture (free-standing wardrobes, etc) from their grandmother who has moved to a smaller place and no longer has space for it (not that I do!) - and my husband hates the old fashioned ball and claw look! Have you got any ideas for revamping/reusing old fashioned furniture in new ways? I would not like to have to sell/give away the furniture, but it does not really suit anything in our house, and I cant afford to keep it in storage for 5 years or more?
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Hi Leone,
You lucky bug! I would love to revamp old furniture like that. There are so many things that you can do to give old furniture a new look - especially if it's going to be used in a kids bedroom.
1. Sand everything down to remove all the old varnish using 80 or 120-grit sandpaper. You may find that the furniture is buried under layers of the stuff, in which case it will be easier to use the new Plascon range of RemovAll, which is waterbased and eco-friendly. Pop into your local Builders Warehouse and get some RemovAll RWI 220. Scape off the old varnish, wipe clean and leave to dry.
2. Fill in any holes with wood filler and let dry. Sand everything with 240-grit sandpaper. If you can afford it and don't have one - use a Random Orbit Sander (Bosch PEX 220A). These sanders are finishing sanders and don't leave any scratch marks on the wood.
3. Spray paint with Rust-Oleum Painters Touch. There are some wonderful colours in the range that are perfect for kids and you will be able to co-ordinate the furniture to match their bedrooms. You will need to do the spray painting in a well-ventilated space.
Rust-Oleum will be on the shelf in Builders Warehouse as from March this year (Yippee!)
4. Ornate doors, handles and feet can easily be removed and replaced with something more modern. I have seen lovely brushed steel legs and handles at Builders Warehouse - and they are very affordable.
Have fun!
Janice
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Maureen
Monday, January 25, 2010 11:33 AM
Where does one buy Rust Oleum?
I have a chromodeck roof on patio with what looks like ducoed steel constructed beams for support.
There seems to be steel without duco, right on the top which is causing rust and sort of dripping down on the ducoed beams.
Would Rust Oleam be the right product toe use to seal those places and respray the beams?
Where is this product available?
Thank you
Maureen
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Hi Maureen,
Depending upon your location, you should be able to buy Rust-Oleum at certain Pennypincher/Timbercity outlets, as well as Mica. As from March you will also be able to buy Rust-Oleum products at Builders Warehouse countrywide (yippee!!!!).
Rust-Oleum would definitely be the perfect option for your beams. I would start with Rust-Oleum Stops Rust to neutralise the existing rust and prevent further corrosion. Then you can easily paint with any of the RO exterior products.
Janice
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Sarah
Monday, January 25, 2010 10:44 AM
Revamp an old tiled kitchen countertop
Any suggestions for revamping an old tiled kitchen counter?
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Hi Sarah,
There are a few options that you could consider:
1. Removing the old tiled countertop and replacing with a Formica LifeSeal countertop. Priced at around R500 per 3,6m length these are reasonably affordable and will give the kitchen a completely new look.
2. If you want to remove the old tiles and re-tile it's a matter of taking off the old tiles using a hammer and chisel, removing all the old grout and tile adhesive and starting all over again.
3. If you simply want to refresh the existing countertop, you can easily remove as much of the old grout as possible and re-grout. It's a good idea to apply a grout sealer once done, as this prevents staining and keeps the new grout looking white. You will find grout sealer at your local Builders Warehouse or Builders Express store.
Janice
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Cheryl
Sunday, January 24, 2010 8:02 PM
Interior sliding door
We are trying to find an internal 'hanging' sliding door in white, do you perhaps know where we can obtain this from?
Thanks
Regards
Cheryl
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Hi Cheryl,
If you don't find what you are looking for at your local Builders Warehouse or Timbercity, you'll probably have to buy the door and attach everything yourself - not that difficult. www.hillaldam.co.za supply a wide range of accessories for these types of doors, and most of these are available at Builders Warehouse.
Janice
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Graham
Thursday, January 21, 2010 10:31 AM
How to repair a cracked basin
I recently cracked the basin in our bathroom and wondered if it can be fixed / repaired instead of replacing it?
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Hi Graham,
There are ways that you can fix up the crack but nothing is as permanent as replacing it. You could use a 2-part epoxy filler that is water-resisting - such as Alcolin AquaMend. This is a wonderful product that can even be used in a swimming pool. Do bear in mind, however, that this is not intended as a permanent fix but it will work.
Janice
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Kagisho
Tuesday, January 19, 2010 7:07 PM
Painting wall tiles and how to treat damp
Is it wise to remove wall tiles in the bathroom? Will repainting be a better option? What kind of paint will be suitable for old fashioned glossy tiles? I do not want to spend a lot of money on upgrading this house.
Second question: How best can I sort out dampness on the wall inside the cupboard - it seems there's a gutter problem which results in rain water filtering through the wall is my guess?
Will appreciate your assistance.
Regards
Kagisho
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Hi Kagisho,
Painting tiles offers an affordable way to update tiles without the hassle and cost of replacing. However, it is a temporary option and I normally only recommend this process for not longer than 2 years. Take a look at: bathroom-weekendmakeover. I would also suggest that you give the tiles a sanding with 180-grit sandpaper to take some of the gloss off the top and allow better adhesion for the tile primer.
First off, sort out the problem with the gutter or the damp will never go away. You can add pipe onto the end of the downpipe to direct the flow of water away from the wall/property, or remove that downpipe and position it further along. Once the source has been removed the damp will go away. If you still experience some damp you can use Coprox Masonry Waterproofing to sort out the problem on the inside of the cupboard.
Janice
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Ashleigh
Monday, January 18, 2010 8:24 AM
Affordable wendy house
Hi there!
Could you possibly tell me how to build an outside wendy house for my little girl? We had one growing up that my dad built, and it provided us with endless joy. Alternatively do you know of a supplier of wendy houses? (The good old traditional kind, not the bank breaking ones!!). I live in Nelspruit so ideally a place that will also deliver.
Thanks
Ashleigh
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Hi Ashleigh,
I don't have a plan for a wendy house, but it's not very difficult to make if you think on the principle of a garden shed. The best material to use would be pine tongue and groove, pine framework, and plywood cladding inside if required.
Start off with the base (framework) and then build framework for the sides up around the base. Clad with tongue and groove and then top off with either framework and IBR or your choice of roofing material. I seem to remember doing a garden shed for the Home-Dzine Online magazine - I think in the January 2009 issue.
Janice
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Adele
Sunday, January 17, 2010 10:25 PM
Paint for plastic - fake leather
Hi, Is there a product that I can use to paint fake leather to cover an old chair, and if so do you think is will it rub off on clothing.
******Can anyone tell me what product to use. I want to paint or dye faux leather (pleather).******
Thanks
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Hi Adele,
I have previously tried painting faux leather with mixed results. I used Rust-Oleum spray paint for plastic and it worked on one and not the other. I think it all depends on the material itself. The problem is with fake leather is that it's not material and not plastic. You can try it with your fabric to see if it works.
Janice
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Salma
Thursday, January 14, 2010 2:59 PM
How to soundproof my apartment
I live in a complex of 4 units,bottom floor,I can hear the movements of the people upstairs and it driving me crazy. What SOUNDPROOFING can I use on my (high) ceiling to combat this problem.
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Hi Salma,
If you own your apartment you could consider the option of installing a false ceiling. This ceiling would be lower than the existing ceiling, and could be padded with Think Pink to block out the noise - it really does work. It's probably the best solution, and will work if you have high ceilings.
If you don't own the apartment, try talking to the tenants and ask them to put down chunky rugs!
Janice
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Steven
Tuesday, January 12, 2010 2:43 PM
Bathroom ideas - remove tiles and plaster walls
Hi Janice
Living at the coast, damp is always a problem. I recently had to remove the cabinet under the vanity counter in my en-suite as the wood had succumbed to damp. The wall behind this is pretty shocking. What would you suggest to treat damp? I'm not too keen on the plascon dampseal
Secondly, I seem to recall in a back issue, an article about stripping out most of the tiles in a bath room and then skimming with rhinolite. Sort of a 'tuscan' effect? Do you recall which issue this was in? I am eventually thinking of re-doing my bathroom to get rid of all the 70's style tiles.
Thanks and brgds
Steven
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Hi Steven,
Is there any reason why the walls are so damp? Is the damp proofing course still OK? Is the ground perhaps higher than the DPC?
I was talking to a waterproofing and dampproofing specialist this morning and the one thing we agreed upon was that it makes no sense to spend a fortune on damp proofing products if it's not going to solve the problem. I can recommend the Coprox range of waterproofing and damp proofing products as I have used them myself with excellent results, but bear in mind that they are not going to cure the problem - simply hide it.
As concerns your second query. The problem with Rhinolite is that it is very absorbent, and it remains absorbent even once dry. This is going to be the worst product you can apply to your bathroom walls. Again, Coprox have an excellent range of 'plaster-effect' finishes that would work in a bathroom. They may be a little bit more expensive, but if you have already tried the Plascon Dampseal you'll know why - they work!
One nice result of using the Coprox range of plasters is that they are very modern, come in a range of colours and you can design your bathroom in any style you want.
Janice
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Suki
Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 3:19 PM
Replace kitchen countertops
Hi Janice
Your advice has really been coming in handy around the home! I'm pretty excited about all the changes taking place. Time to revamp the kitchen; now I'm not going to completely overhaul it - don't have the budget just yet - but I am redoing all the kitchen cupboards for the moment. I would also like to replace the counter, as it is pale blue formica to match the cupboards and works on my last nerve! What do you advise as a low-cost but hard-wearing counter top? I was thinking of using lintels, plaster and concrete, but I don't think the existing cupboards can handle the weight. What about using a pine surface and screeding over that (similar to a "floating cast shelf" project I saw in Home)? Do you think that would withstand daily wear and tear? Or maybe a pine counter topped with tiles?
Thanks in advance!
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Hi Suki,
I'm so glad the information is coming in useful.
Lifestyle Formica countertops are not that expensive - a 3.5 metre length retails at about R800, but they often have specials and you can pick up a nice countertop for around R500. And 3.5 metres is more than enough for an average kitchen. Lintels, plaster and concrete will probably work out more expensive and you still have to polish the top if you want it to look nice, which will cost in the region of R1000 all in, and it will be EXTREMELY heavy. I do like the idea of a pine countertop finished with tiles, especially if you have a rustic or country-style kitchen. Be sure to get a grout sealer because grout is porous and not very healthy for food preparation.
Janice
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Rikus
Tuesday, January 12, 2010 10:37 AM
Mineral oil for butchers block
In your DIY article on Butchers Block maintenance you mention Mineral Oil to maintain the wood and protect it from moisture. I have been to several hardware stores in Cape Town looking for Mineral oil / Butchers Block Oil, but nobody stocks it. Can you perhaps point me in the right direction on where I can get some Mineral Oil in Cape Town?
Thank you
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Hi Rikus,
If you battle to find PURE mineral oil you can also use Coconut Oil, Cocunut Butter, Beeswax. I think I should also mention that you will probably find PURE mineral oil at your local pharmacy rather than hardware store.
Janice
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Ashleigh
Tuesday, January 12, 2010 9:16 AM
How to change colour of paving
Hi there,
We have just extended our paving on our stoep, but unfortunately we could not find the same colour paving bricks (terracotta) and had to go with a plum colour. Is there some sort of stain on the market that we can use to stain all the paving bricks so that they at least look the same colour?
Thanks
Ashleigh
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Hi Ashleigh,
You can easily change the colour of your paving bricks, so that you have one solid colour. Prominent Paints have a paving paint that is excellent and I have used it often for various projects. It comes in a range of colours. The easiest way to apply is to use a Bosch PFS Spray System, but you can also use a paintbrush.
Janice
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Sundahl
Monday, January 11, 2010 8:46 AM
Storage space under a bed
Hi there,
I recently saw a program on how to create storage space in the base of ones bed. Is this easy to achieve? How can I go
about doing this?
Many thanks,
Sundahl
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Hi Sundahl,
There are actually a couple of options on the site and in the magazine for underbed storage:
http://www.home-dzine.co.za/crafts/crafts-eco-store.htm
http://www.home-dzine.co.za/bedroom/bedroom-base-drawers.htm
Both options are fairly easy, but you will need to check your base first to see if you can cut into it - otherwise try the first option.
Janice
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Jennifer
Friday, January 08, 2010 8:23 PM
How to replace skirting
Hi there,
I am relieved and delighted to have found your site, and am very keen to start attending some basic and later advanced DIY courses.
I have a question though - are you able to tailor make courses for specifics - for example - the beginner's power tool course isn't as relevant to me as something like 'fixing' an uneven wall surface (some pock marks, and uneven surface from years of different paint layers - removed in some places and not others,, and then painted over). Also removing old skirting boards, and putting new skirting boards in.
I know - these are probably bare bones basics - but I'd like to start somewhere. If you could poiint me in the right direction, I'd be eternally grateful.
Thanks for your time
Warm regards,
Jennifer
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Hi Jennifer,
Both the projects that you mention below are easily tackled as DIY projects.
Smoothing walls
Having experienced this type of problem myself, I have found that the easiest way to work on walls is to grab some interior crackfiller to fill in dips and pock marks left from hanging pictures. Once dry you can easily use a sander and 180-grit sandpaper to 'smooth' the walls. Although this can be a messy project, if you use a Bosch sander they have a fitted filter system that is fantastic on cutting down on the dust factor.
Replacing skirting
To remove old skirting use a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer to work the old skirting away from the wall. Use a sander to smooth down any areas where there is built up paint on the walls.
To install the new skirting, measure and cut to the length required. Any corners will need to be mitred at a 45-degree angle. You can use a mitre box and saw for this. Attach the new skirting to the walls using brad nails and a hammer.
You must come and join us for at least one of our EASY-DIY or DIY-DIVA workshops. We not only talk about the topics, but also provide plenty of hints, tips and techniques as well. And - because it's mostly ladies - we have lots of fun!
Janice
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Vincent
Monday, January 04, 2010 4:32 PM
Help with a fitted kitchen
If I intend fitting a kitchen, in what order do I do the following: tiling the floor, fitting the cupboards or installing the ceiling (if the cupboards will touch the ceiling)?
Vincent
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Hi Vincent,
Definitely the first place to start is the ceiling, especially if your new cupboard are to ceiling height. I would suggest that the last to be done is to tile the floor, as in this way you tile around the base cabinets.
Janice
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Yvonne
Monday, January 04, 2010 1:45 PM
Article: Add colour to a plain bedroom
Hi
Reading your article below I wanted to ask if you know of a supplier of onlays in Gauteng.
Please let me know
Regards
Yvonne
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Hi Yvonne,
I have seen them at craft and hobby shops, but they are hard to come by. The easy way to make your own is using plaster of paris and various moulds. You can use almost anything for a mould - just coat with vaseline so that it doesn't stick. Another solution is to buy polystyrene moulding strips, which you can get from your local Builders Warehouse. These are decorative strips that are used as part of dado or chair rails, and crown moulding.
Janice
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