Here's how:
Measure up from the floor 1.70 cm and snap chalk lines around the room at that height.
Arrange baseboard around the room so the grain pattern and colour of adjoining pieces match as closely as possible. Rough-cut the
boards a few cm longer than needed. Then cut the boards to exact length and fasten with two 6cm nails.
Mitre the baseboard by clamping a large square in position and using it to guide the saw. Set the saw to cut a 45-degree bevel for outside corner pieces.
Plumb the first board with a level, apply glue and affix to the wall.
Drive 3 cm nails through the tongue into the wall to hold the boards in place until the glue dries. Drive the nails at about a 45-degree angle. Use three nails in each board.
Tip
Don’t assume the boards have a perfectly square mill-cut end. First trim one end square, then cut it to length.
Assemble outside corners by cutting off the backside of the grooves at a 45-degree angle and aligning the front of the grooves as shown. Glue and face-nail the boards to the corner studs with the tongues facing away from the corner.
Notch boards for switches and receptacles with a jigsaw. Hold the board over the outlet and mark for the top and bottom cuts. Then measure and mark the side cut. Saw straight in at the top. Then cut a sweeping arch into the corner. Cut along the remaining lines and cut small notches for the outlet screws.
Measure from the corner to the edge of the board, excluding the tongue, to determine the width of the last board. Measure every 30cm. along the corner and mark these dimensions on the final board. Connect the marks to create a cutting line.
Saw 5mm beyond the line with the saw set to a 30-degree bevel. Then plane to the line, checking the fit occasionally. Remove the
back half of the groove by sawing it off or slicing it off with a sharp utility knife. Press the board into place and nail through the face into
the corner stud to secure it.
Notch boards with a jigsaw to fit around the window. Trim and plane the board to fit tightly to the window trim. Cut off the back half of the groove if necessary to get the board in.
Cut out brackets with a jigsaw and sand the curve with a belt sander or sandpaper wrapped around a wooden dowel. Click here for template
Cut boards to fit on top of the panelling and drill two pilot holes at each stud location. Temporarily fasten them and position the brackets. Attach them temporarily with a pea-size dab of hot melt glue. Stand back and look. Adjust the bracket locations if you like. Then mark the location of each bracket. Remove the brackets and boards.
Drill two pilot holes at each bracket location and attach the brackets to the boards with 50mm screws. Reinstall the boards. Drive two5cm finish nails into each stud and use a nail set to sink the nailheads slightly below the surface.
Cut boards to fit over the brackets. Mitre the corners. Nail the shelf boards to the brackets with 3cm nails. Cut 3cm wide edging strips from lengths of tongue-and-groove panelling for the shelf edging. Leave a “bead” on one edge and align this edge flush with the top of the shelf. Nail the strips to the shelf with 2cm nails.
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