Stylish Fireplace Mantel

This style of mantel, almost always made of wood and painted, relates directly to classical architecture. The mantel has simple mouldings and a flat relief, with a plain treatment, that is perfect for a brick-faced hearth opening and provides a focal point.

You will need:
Note: Dimensions are not given for this project, as these can differ according to the existing hearth opening.
Plywood was used for the basic construction, with the plinth blocks and mouldings of SupaWood (MDF). However, SupaWood can also be used in place of Plywood.

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Here's how:

The Foundation Board
This is the backdrop of the mantel and provides a flat surface, bridging any gaps between the masonry. The foundation was designed with the lintel section fitting between the columns, ensuring that the mantel parts would overlap the foundation joints for a stronger design.

1. Cut the two columns and lintel that will form the fourdation. The hearth opening in this project is 813mm high by 1067 across, and an even course of bricks is left exposed around the sides and top. Using a 356mm-wide lintel (horizontal section) and 267mm-wide columns (vertical sections) produces the balance proportions that form the basis for this design. You should adjust these dimensions based on the size of your firebox opening.

2. Lay out and use biscuit or dowel joints to connect the lintel to the columns - three to four biscuits or dowels should do the job.

3. Glue up the foundation assembly and hold with clamps, making sure the columns are square to the lintel. When the assembly is dry, remove the clamps; but before moving it, attach two support battens across the front. The battens reinforce the joints, maintain the dimensions of the foundation opening, and keep it flat during installation.

The Plinth, Pilasters and Architrave

The plinth blocks at the base of the pilasters are made with two pieces of 19mm-thick solid pine laminated face-to-face. The net 40mm thickness is needed to support the pilaster and the plinth moulding.



1. Cut the plinth block pieces slightly overside. Saw or rout two grooves into the back face of each piece, about 40mm from the edges. Fit a spline into each groove, and glue the mating surfaces together (see pic right).

Cutting the parts to size
1. Arrange the main matel parts (pilasters, architrave and plinths) on the foundation. Centre the parts and cut them to length.

2. Cut biscuit or dowel joints to align the top of the pilasters to the architrave.

3. Cut the plinth blocks to size.

Select the Mouldings

You can purchase stock mouldings from any builder supply store if you are looking for simple designs. Three distinct profiles are required: a large and simple cove for the cornice moulding, an ogee with fillet for the moulding at the base of the plinth, and a large ogee with reveal for the capital moulding.

Priming the parts
1. Prime all parts by filling any holes, dents, split seams or cracks in the mantel with wood filler. Also apply filler on the exposed edges of plywood. Once dry, use 120-grit sandpaper to remove excess and level the surface.

2. Clean off with a clean cloth, then apply a water-based paint primer with a brush or roller. Sand again the 180-grit sandpaper. The surface is now ready to paint.

NEXT: Anchoring the foundation

You can easily build this mantel in a weekend. Three board joined to form the foundation, which is fastened to the wall, are topped with plinth blocks, plain vertical pilasters and a few mouldings.

  source: fireplace mantels- tanton press