Faux stone or brick wall
Give your patio an instant facelift by adding a faux stone or brick wall effect to an exterior wall.
Painting a surface to look like it is made of stone blocks or bricks is a versatile technique because you can customise the size, shape, arrangement, and colour of the blocks or bricks in the finished treatment.
the appropriate paint colours and
dimensions, a stone block or brick
project can resemble medieval
cobblestones, Victorian pavers,
modern cinder blocks, or a host of
other popular masonry styles. The thickness of the masking
tape you choose for this technique
affects the appearance of the grout
lines in your finished project. Look
at real masonry projects to get a
sense of the mortar thickness that
is most appropriate for the type and
size of blocks or bricks you want to represent.
You will need:
Prominent Paints - exterior matt - in your choice of colour
Prominent Paints - exterior matt - in a slightly lighter shade
Masking tape in assorted thickness
Newspaper or rags
Using a spirit level, pencil, and tape measure, mark the placement of the horizontal lines for your design. Start from the bottom of the surface and make small pencil marks; don’t draw lines. Apply thin masking tape along the horizontal joint markings. Hang a plumb bob from the ceiling to help make the vertical mortar lines plumb.
Start from the far left and apply vertical tape strips to every other row of blocks or bricks to create a masonry effect.
Use your fingernail or a burnishing tool to smooth the tape lines to the wall. The tape must adhere tightly to prevent paint from creeping under the edges; that would spoil the effect.
In small, separate mixing containers combine one part scumble glaze and one part paint; stir until blended. Pour equal amounts of each glaze colour into separate shallow plates or trays. Load a stipple brush or a stiff brush with the glaze that will be the dominant brick colour. Blot excess glaze on a piece of newspaper or a rag. Working within one taped-off block at a time, tap on the first glaze with the brush. Pounce quickly and randomly, rotating the position of your hand and arm frequently.
Cover floors with dropcloth to protect from drips and spills and reduce cleanup time.
Apply glaze inconsistently, allowing small patches of the base coat to show through the glaze. Avoid overpouncing and producing an overly blended finish. After completing each block, step back a few feet and evaluate your work; every block should have a distinct look but should still blend with the surrounding blocks.
Load a second brush with the second colour; blot off excess. Working within the same block, apply the second glaze colour - with the same pouncing motion - as an accent, applying glaze to some areas and leaving other areas unglazed. Blend the glazes slightly, but don’t overblend. Begin working on another block, applying the first glaze to the entire area of the block and the second glaze as an accent to portions of the block. Allow each block to have slightly different amounts of each glaze and levels of blending for a more realistic look.
To create convincing bricks and blocks, you must vary the textures and dominant colours on each taped area. Take a look at real masonry projects to get a sense of the variety of textures and colours present.
When you’re done painting a section of bricks, carefully remove the masking tape. Start by removing vertical tape pieces, followed by longer, horizontal bands. Regular masking tape left on a surface for days - or even several hours - can pull up paint, plaster when you attempt to remove it. Touch up any areas where topcoat glaze may have seeped under the tape by applying the basecoat paint with an artist’s brush.
For a weathered effect, let the two glazes used for the bricks dry; then sponge on thinned green glaze (one part paint, two or three parts glaze, one part water) to resemble moss and lichen. For an overall aged effect, remove the tape lines and roll on a very thin coat of grey or brown.